There’s a certain magic in small towns that you won’t find in bustling cities. It’s in the way time seems to slow down, how locals cheerfully go about their daily lives, and how the most unexpected moments unfold when you least expect them.
I learned this firsthand in the enchanting hill town of Casperia, Italy — a place where quiet inspiration, unforgettable charm, and one slightly terrifying brush with pyrotechnics awaited me.
Why small towns captivate the soul
When planning my first trip to Italy in 2008, I felt an almost magnetic pull toward small towns rather than tourist-heavy cities. I longed for a retreat — a place where I could slow down, reflect, and soak in the rhythms of Italian life. Casperia, a car-free mediaeval village perched on a hilltop in the heart of Lazio, promised exactly that.
Far from the crowded landmarks of Rome or Venice (which I would visit later in my trip), Casperia offered a tranquil and enticing alternative. Its labyrinth of cobblestone streets, panoramic views of olive groves, and charming stone villas seemed to whisper, “Slow down, take your time.” So, I did.
Discovering Casperia’s quiet charm
Just an hour from Rome by train and a short drive from Poggio Mirteto station, Casperia welcomed me like an old friend. My host, Roberto from La Torretta B&B, picked me up at the station. The seats in his clapped-out but charming little car placed me in an almost horizontal position, and he chatted happily as made our way up the hill. I ignored my rather inelegant posture as his cheerful banter and stunning scenery set the tone for the warm hospitality that awaited.
The history of Casperia is as layered as its winding streets. While archaeological finds date back to the 5th century BC, the village’s mediaeval roots took shape in the 10th century. Its name evolved from Aspra to Casperia in 1947, though its charm has remained timeless.
Casperia’s old town — Centro Storico — is enclosed by imposing defence walls constructed around 1281 and can only be accessed on foot through one of two gates: the Roman Gate or St Mary’s Gate. No cars disturb the peaceful laneways, where bursts of petunias spill from window boxes, and blue plumbago creeps up ancient walls. At the top of the town stands the old church of St John the Baptist, keeping quiet watch over the serene village below.
Roaming the countryside
One particularly hot August day, I decided to explore the countryside surrounding Casperia. With no specific plan in mind, I wandered through sun-soaked olive groves, following dusty country lanes, before eventually catching a ride with Roberto to the market town of Poggio Mirteto — another hidden jewel waiting to be explored.
While it wasn’t market day, the town still exuded charm, with its pretty streets, inviting cafés, and locals going about their daily routines. I took my time exploring, pausing to admire the architecture and soak in the relaxed atmosphere. There’s a beauty in these small towns that feels authentic and unhurried — a refreshing contrast to the bustling cities.
By late afternoon, with the sun still beating down, I was drenched in sweat, my sandals had begun to protest by encouraging blisters, and a layer of dust clung stubbornly to my skin. But despite my dishevelled state, I felt an undeniable sense of satisfaction. There’s a certain joy in walking without an agenda, letting the landscape reveal itself one step at a time.
As I boarded a local bus back to Casperia, the adventure continued. Sharing the ride was an elderly Italian nonna — ‘brick-shaped’ rather than ‘shapely’, and dressed in a voluminous black dress, black tights and shoes. Over her arm hung a capacious wicker basket, from which a live chicken peeked out, blinking at the world. Dinner, I suspected!
The old bus itself was also a character in this tale, rattling up and down the steep hillsides with alarming vigour. The driver, completely unfazed, conducted a lively phone conversation with one hand while navigating hairpin turns with the other. Gravel sprayed down ravines, and I held my breath more than once, contemplating my imminent demise. But clearly, he’d driven this route a thousand times — and thankfully, we all lived to tell the tale.
An unexpected pyrotechnic encounter
Back in Casperia, I sought solace in the piazza, perching on a stone wall with a much-deserved ice cream in hand. It turns out there was more going on in Casperia that weekend than I expected. There was an air of excitement and anticipation in the air — it was clear that something unusual was going on.
First came the Casperia City Band — a lively group of locals ranging from kids to adults, playing flutes, clarinets, trumpets, saxophones, and a big bass drum. Leading the procession was a group of colourful marching girls. With more enthusiasm than talent, they paraded across the piazza, their music a joyful cacophony that echoed through the village.
In the twilight, hundreds of people poured into the piazza. Priests set up a makeshift altar on the church steps, and, as darkness fell, the crowd lit candles, filling the air with a warm, flickering glow.
From my vantage point on the old city wall, I watched, curious and content. Then, with a sudden whoosh! rockets zinged past my head, exploding into a dazzling display of colour. Seconds later, thousands of Tom Thumb crackers, cleverly concealed under the edge of the ramparts, erupted in a deafening cacophony.
Startled but exhilarated, I beat a hasty retreat to the safety of a café canopy, joining others in marvelling at the glittering fireworks painting the night sky.
Only later did I learn that I’d stumbled into Ferragosto — a public holiday celebrating the Assumption of Mary. While I hadn’t planned to join in, I was swept up in the joy of the moment, laughing with strangers and marvelling at the beauty of this unplanned adventure.
Lessons from a hilltop village
Casperia was just the beginning of my love affair with small towns and off-the-beaten-path destinations. There’s a certain magic in these places — a slower pace, a sense of authenticity, and the chance for unexpected adventures that linger in your memory long after you’ve left.
This tiny hill town, with its quiet charm and festive surprises, left an indelible mark on me. It reminded me to slow down, stay present, and embrace whatever comes my way. Adventure doesn’t have to be grand to be meaningful. Sometimes, it’s the small, unplanned moments — like an evening of unexpected fireworks — that hold the most magic.
Tips for embracing small-town adventures
If my (true) story of Casperia has inspired you to explore small towns and out-of-the-way places on your travels, here are a few tips to make the most of the experience:
- Choose thoughtfully: Look for places off the beaten path that resonate with your interests, whether it’s history, art, nature, or adventure.
- Stay a while: Give yourself time to immerse in the local culture and rhythm rather than rushing through.
- Engage with the locals: Small-town residents are often more approachable and willing to share stories, tips, and hospitality.
- Embrace the unexpected: Whether it’s a festival, a random conversation, or a serendipitous discovery, be open to surprises.
- Learn a few words of the language: Even simple greetings can go a long way in building connections.
Casperia taught me that joy and inspiration can be found in the simplest places. You don’t have to seek out the grandiose or expensive to experience something extraordinary. Sometimes, you just need to let the magic unfold around you.
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