Singapore and I first met in the late 1970s, although “met” might not be the right word. I was a young orchestral musician on tour, stepping into Asia for the very first time. Nothing about it felt familiar. The heat and humidity wrapped itself around me, and every afternoon — almost to the minute — there was a downpour at 3pm. You could almost set your watch by it. And yet, that first experience in Singapore sowed the seed of my life-long fascination with Asian culture and culinary delights.
- Two Singapores, Two Lifetimes
- A Return to Singapore in 2025
- When Travel Ideas Align…
- Settling In: Little India — Chaos and Colour
- Wandering on a Whim: Kampong Gelam
- The Future in Full Bloom: Gardens by the Bay
- Marina Bay: From the Sky Deck to Bumboats
- Discovering the Hawker Centres
- Shopping in Chinatown
- The Adventure Continues…in the City's Quieter Corners
Two Singapores, Two Lifetimes
The Singapore River back then bore little resemblance to the polished waterfront we know today. The banks were lined with dozens of wooden bumboats, all jostling for space in a tangle of ropes, peeling paint, and noise as they transported cargo — materials, spices, and timber — to the nearby shophouses (tall, narrow buildings with a shop on the ground floor and living quarters above).
A night market sprawled along the river’s edge, smoky and chaotic, where beef satay, amongst other enticing delicacies, was grilled over an enormous circular steel plate set above roaring flames. I can still remember my first taste — steaming, spicy, and savoury/sweet, with just a touch of chilli. Compared to the rather plain English-style food I’d been brought up on, this exotic taste was like a wonderful explosion of spices in my mouth. It started me on a life-time’s journey of exploring Asian cuisine!
Orchard Road, now a high-end shopping strip, was a far more modest affair back then. I vividly recall sitting in a trishaw with a colleague as the driver pedalled us along the street — unsure if we’d made a wise decision to get on board in the first place. Curiously, I remember little of the orchestral concerts we played on that tour!
Singapore wasn’t particularly clean or tidy then, and it was probably more dangerous than I realised, but to me it felt electric — an exhilarating, slightly wild introduction to a part of the world I’d never seen.
That was half a lifetime ago.
A Return to Singapore in 2025
Returning decades later, I found a city transformed: gleaming towers, manicured gardens, a riverfront remodelled, and air-conditioned transport that runs like clockwork. Yet beneath the shine, I sensed echoes of the place I first knew — glimpses that tugged at old memories.
This time I wasn’t travelling as a young musician on tour, but as a woman in her early 70s, visiting with a long-time friend I’d met through music many years after that first trip. Another orchestra connection, another reason I sometimes feel as though my life has been strung together by rehearsal rooms, backstage chats, teaching communities, and friendships formed between performances.
Coming back to Singapore with her felt like opening a new chapter of a book I felt I’d read before — still familiar in so many ways, surprising in others, and proof that some places, like some friendships, only grow richer with time.
When Travel Ideas Align…
The idea of going to Singapore surfaced almost at the same time for both of us. One of us mentioned it in passing, the other said, “I was thinking exactly the same thing,” and that was that. No grand planning session, no spreadsheets — just a shared spark that quickly turned into booked flights.
J and I don’t live in the same city anymore, so choosing a destination always feels a little like finding a meeting place somewhere between our lives. Singapore had the right balance: familiar enough that we wouldn’t feel overwhelmed with too many options, but interesting enough that we could fill a week without trying too hard.
And yet, this was not the first time either of us had revisited Singapore. A few years ago, just before the Covid pandemic hit, we were on another orchestra tour together. We’d been in China for a couple of weeks, with the final concerts to be held in Singapore. But, as with many of our colleagues, we’d contracted a nasty virus that laid us both very low. So, on that occasion, with all hope of performing abandoned, we saw nothing of Singapore except the inside of our hotel rooms!
Once we’d agreed on the destination, the rest fell into place neatly. We settled on a hotel, exchanged a few notes about the places we’d each like to see, and left everything else open.
We’ve travelled enough together — Japan, Vietnam, China — that we understand each other: plan flexibly, leave space for spontaneity, and accept that the weather may have a say in the day’s activities. Occasionally we drift in different directions for an hour or two, then meet again to plan our next activity. It all happens without fuss.
On this trip, I generally took the lead with navigating the metro system, mostly because negotiating public transport overseas is one of my odd little strengths, and J was perfectly happy to let me puzzle out the lines and platforms. Singapore’s MRT is wonderfully straightforward, so between the two of us we managed just fine.
And so, with minimal ceremony, we set off — two friends with a loose plan, a week ahead of us, and the knowledge that, whatever happened, we’d make it a good trip.
Settling In: Little India — Chaos and Colour
Our hotel was tucked just off Serangoon Road, in Little India, which meant that from the moment we stepped outside each morning, we were swept straight into the lively, head-spinning rhythm of Little India.
Loud music poured from shopfront speakers, competing cheerfully with the chatter of market stalls. Garlands of marigolds and jasmine tumbled in bright cascades, fruit stalls overflowed in a riot of colour (and aroma, in the case of the pungent durian fruit), and gold jewellery glittered from almost every shop window.
It was all a little scruffier than Singapore’s polished postcard image — but all the more alive for it.
Across the street, the Sri Veeramakaliamman Hindu Temple rose in a blaze of statues, patterns, and colours, its façade so intricate that I noticed something new each time we passed. Dedicated to the goddess Kali, it stood as a vivid reminder that in this neighbourhood, the sacred and the everyday aren’t kept separate — they mingle, coexist, and enhance one another. We’d sometimes hear the devotees ringing the bells and beating drums as part of their daily ritual.
It didn’t take long for J and me to settle into our usual travel routine. Our mornings tended to unfold comfortably: a slow start, a bit of discussion over breakfast about what we might like to do, and a quick check of the weather. We always knew it would be hot and humid, but we were lucky that rain did not interfere with our plans the whole week.
Little India made it easy to begin our days without rushing — we were just a few minutes walk from the MRT (subway) station, and had the Tekka Hawker Centre (for inexpensive meals) and shops right outside our door.
Wandering on a Whim: Kampong Gelam
One morning, we set off for Kampong Gelam (also known as Kampong Glam) — a historic neighbourhood long associated with Singapore’s Malay and Arab communities, which grew around the Sultan Mosque and still carries that layered history in its streets.
The heat of that day had clearly decided to put in a full effort — it was intense! Sunscreen, a hat, or an umbrella are useful in those situations. Nevertheless, the neighbourhood rewarded us from the moment we arrived — entering the area via Haji Lane, with its many small shops and boutiques, colourful murals, and cafés.
The golden dome of the Sultan Mosque shimmered against a brilliant blue sky. Around it, the streets spread out in a patchwork of murals, textiles, and little shops spilling over with colour. Every corner seemed to promise something interesting — a new scent, a painted wall, a shopkeeper arranging carpets in shady interiors. It was the sort of place where you wander slowly, not because you’re tired, but because you have time to explore — such as the trinket shops (a little touristy, but wonderful for picking up small gifts or souvenirs).
Eventually, the sun and soaring temperature made us want to retreat somewhere cool. Drifting toward air-conditioning like homing pigeons, we eventually found a nearby Starbucks, tucked inside a large hospital, of all places. Stopping at Starbucks has become a running joke between us over the years. No matter where we travel, we somehow end up in one! While it may not be a new cultural or culinary experience, you can usually guarantee consistent food, air conditioning, and toilets! (Never underestimate the value of a clean toilet!)
The Future in Full Bloom: Gardens by the Bay
Gardens by the Bay is one of those places that makes you stop and wonder how anyone ever imagined it into existence. Towering Supertrees rise like majestic sentinels, half sculpture, half botanical marvel, wrapped in cloaks of beautiful foliage and flowers.
By day, they feel futuristic and calm; by night, I imagine the Garden Rhapsody show turns them into something almost magical, pulsing with light and music. We didn’t return in the evening, though — a mutual decision.
Beside the river, and within the gardens, there are two huge shell-shaped domes — the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest Dome. Managing our interests, energy, and budgets, we decided to focus on the Flower Dome.
Inside, the air was cooler, though sill humid. Nine gardens awaited, each a tiny world: Mediterranean olive groves, arid deserts, South American jungles, and quirky baobab groves.
It surprised me that one of my favourites was the cactus garden — spiky, weird, and oddly endearing.
By the time we emerged, hunger pangs led us to one of the many dining options for lunch (burgers at Shake Shack!). We had skipped visiting the Cloud Forest Dome, which looked temptingly misty. But over the years, I’ve learned that less can be more, and sometimes skipping something allows space to actually enjoy what you do see.
Marina Bay: From the Sky Deck to Bumboats
Compared to my 1970s recollections, the Marina Bay area is a pristine architectural marvel. Gone were the jumble of wooden boats and smoky night markets. In their place, sleek towers rose from the river’s edge, green spaces seamlessly connecting one building to the next, and everything gleamed as if freshly washed every day.
Marina Bay Sands — a 5-star luxury hotel with its eye-catching giant boat-shaped structure on top — can’t be missed in Singapore. From the 57th floor Skypark Observation Deck, the city stretched out beneath us in every direction. Looking down over the streets, rooftops, green spaces, and the sweep of the bay made me smile at my 1970s memories of the rickety riverbank.
That evening, we took a river cruise aboard a restored traditional bumboat. Perhaps a descendant of those old wooden vessels, it drifted along the river as the city lights flickered on. The Merlion stood guard at the river’s edge, half-lion, half-fish, looking both mystical and majestic in the twilight. And drifting by the stunning lotus-shaped Art Science Museum highlighted what an architectural marvel it is.
J and I agreed: the cruise was a highlight. Floating along on a perfect balmy evening, and watching the city transform from day to night felt almost magical.
Discovering the Hawker Centres
Singapore’s food is irresistible. The variety of cuisines — Chinese, Malay, Indian, Vietnamese — offered something for everyone. Hawker centres became our happy hunting grounds at mealtimes. The iconic Lau Pa Sat (serving authentic local food) and Tekka Centre (in Little India) quickly earned spots as our favourites. Lingering over Korean BBQ, Tikka Masala, naan and roti bread, noodle dishes, and dumplings became a daily pleasure. We returned several times to Tekka Centre just to indulge in mango lassi (my choice) and strawberry lassi (for J).
Shopping in Chinatown
Then there was Chinatown, which we visited one morning when the streets were just waking up. Not the best time of day in any Chinatown, worldwide, and the many souvenir shops felt a bit same-same. But while it lacked the evening bustle that makes Chinatown so magnetic, there was charm in the calmer pace as we explored the variety of shops.
J wandered into a small clothing boutique and tried on a silk Chinese jacket — eventually deciding she had to have it. The purchase process was one of those amusing and unforgettable experiences as the shopkeeper kept offering different styles and sizes. She wasn’t going to let us out of there without buying something! It was a time of laughter, and a little indulgence.
Even our little rituals, like drifting to Starbucks for shade and iced drinks, became part of the enjoyment. Between meals, street corners, temples, and gardens, we let curiosity guide us rather than schedules, discovering colourful murals, fascinating shops, and the small delights that make travel memorable.
The Adventure Continues…in the City’s Quieter Corners
By the time we wandered back from Chinatown, rather hot and a little footsore, but pleased with our purchases, it felt as though we’d absorbed the pulse of the city. But Singapore still had surprises waiting — in gardens, shaded paths, nature, and places where the pace slowed.
What surprised me was how completely the mood would change once we stepped away from the city and into the green. That’s where the next part of the story begins.
Join us in Part 2 – Singapore, Unscripted: Discovering Nature in the City – as we explore Singapore’s gardens, parks, and quieter surprises.
Related Posts:
- Singapore, Unscripted: Part 2 – Discovering Nature in the City
- Singapore, Unscripted: Part 3 – A Relaxed Guide to Six Days in Singapore
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